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Picture Credits:
Sitting, eyes closed
And head back
Muscles sweetly sore,
Dry in my living room,
I can still feel
The endless rise and fall.
Sitting, eyes wide,
Wet and half submerged.
I spot lines
On the horizon,
One after another.
Straddling fiberglass,
Hips shift to find
Balance on the swell.
All-together
As water-bugs
We twenty simultaneous
On stomachs paddle
Toward the approaching line.
A rising wall of water
Blocks our view.
We paddle all the harder
And break through.
Three of us too slow
Are swept ashore.
We seventeen
Again, straddling fiberglass
Rise and fall
On languid swell
The horizon is hidden,
A rising wall of water
Rushes, combs our number.
The second line,
A wall too tall
Foams and crashes
As I dive beneath.
Back aboard
We three who remain
Paddle toward
That last line.
It rises
As we straddle,
Spin, lie and paddle
A rising wall of water
Overtakes us,
Lifts us from behind.
On my left,
He tries to stand.
On my right,
She is thrown
Beneath the churning torrent.
Up from belly, now on feet
I hunker, grasping
One hand on board.
Boiling foam behind,
I fly on the face
Of the wave.
Riding incomparable power
I fly, pressed forward
By its fingertips.
Sitting, eyes closed
And head back
Muscles sweetly sore,
Dry in my living room,
I can still feel
The endless rise and fall.
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